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A properly maintained de-icer will give years and years of service. There is one simple rule to follow to extend the life of a de-icer: keep it
clean.
Lime and mineral deposits insulate the de-icer and the heat cannot escape quick enough from the unit. This leads to burn out. To clean the
de-icer, use white vinegar or a commercial lime cleaning solution (eg, Lime-Away). Soak the de-icer in the solution overnight or until the
deposits dissolve. You may have to clean the de-icer several times a year depending on the hardness of your water and other factors.
No. All tank de-icers (and bird bath de-icers, too) operate on a thermostat to turn the units on and off. If the de-icer is pulled from the tank – or
is run dry – the unit will cycle on when the temperature reaches around 35 degrees (F). It will turn off when the unit reaches a temperature
around 95 degrees (F). The de-icer will then cool down and cycle on again. The maximum temperature reached by the de-icer is not hot
enough to cause a fire hazard.
De-icers are measured by watts. The larger the wattage, the more heat a given de-icer generates. The general rule of thumb is to have 10
watts of power for every gallon. For example, if you intend to de-ice a 150 gallon stock tank then figure on a 1500-watt unit. The performance
of a de-icer depends on a lot of variables, including size of the tank, construction of the tank (metal, plastic or rubber), environmental
conditions (wind chill, outside air temperature, exposure to sun), temperature of the incoming water, drinking activity and so forth.
De-icers are not necessarily intended to maintain a tank completely ice free under all conditions. Rather, the idea is to keep at least part of the
water surface ice-free so that your animals can drink.
If in doubt about what size you need, get the higher wattage unit. Since they only operate when needed, a higher wattage unit will not
necessarily use more electricity since it will run for a shorter period of time (as compared to a lower-wattage unit).
When a de-icer burns out, you may or may not be able to tell from simply looking at it. The first sign of a malfunctioning unit, of course, will be
your tank freezing up. However, tank freeze-up may also result from severe temperatures and wind chill, as well as using an undersized unit.
To test a de-icer, you can carefully run the unit outside of water. The unit must be colder enough for the thermostat to turn on, so put the
de-icer in a freezer for a few minutes first. Then plug the unit in. If the de-icer begins to feel warm in your hands, then it is working OK. Be sure
to unplug the de-icer as soon as you feel it warming up to prevent overheating and burn out.
If the de-icer fails to heat, then either the thermostat or heating element is bad. De-icers generally do not have field serviceable parts. Your
only remedy is to replace the defective de-icer.
Many people are concerned about putting an electrically assisted device in water. They worry about electrocuting either themselves or their
animals. Such concerns, however, are not backed up by the facts.
Electrically assisted de-icers are extremely reliable and safe appliances. Electrical leakage from de-icers are measured in terms of one per
hundreds of thousands units. And these leakages are generally not significant enough to cause injury to people or animals.
Most people recognize a electrical leakage from a de-icer (in the rare event that it even occurs) because their livestock is not drinking from the
tank as they should. Animals are generally very sensitive to electrical currents (such as hot wires on fences) and generally shy away from a tank
with a malfunctioning de-icer.
Still, it always a good idea to install a de-icer (and any outside electrical device) on a GFCI circuit, either at the panel or at the outlet. GFCI
outlets designed for outside use are commonly available at hardware and building supply stores. Also, use common sense when wiring outside
circuits. Never defeat the safety features of your wiring system. Don’t be foolish and use the “copper penny” solution when the fuse keeps
blowing; find the cause of the problem.
However, if you are really concerned about an electrically assisted de-icing appliance, then check out the Polar-Max 100% Energy Free drinker
in our Large Animal Waterers product group. These waterers will not freeze and use no electricity.
All de-icers operate with an on-off thermostat, generally preset at the factory. Typically, a de-icer will turn on around 35 degrees (F) and turn off
around 45 degrees (F) as measured by the water. The actual temperature of the water when the unit turns off depends on several factors, including
volume of water being heated, outside air temperature, etc. Generally, these on-off temperatures cannot be changed in the field.
A thermostat controls when your de-icer is working. By operating only when needed, the de-icer is more efficient in terms of electricity used.
The electricity used by a de-icer in a stock tank depends on a lot of variables, including size of the tank, construction of the tank (metal, plastic or
rubber), environmental conditions (wind chill, outside air temperature, exposure to sun), temperature of the incoming water, drinking activity and so
forth. Metal tanks loose heat faster than plastic or rubber tanks. Wind pulls heat away from the tank and is probably influences electricity
consumption more than outside air temperature.
To reduce electrical consumption, try to locate your tank out of the wind and in a sheltered location, if possible. An insulated or partially buried
tank will retain more heat. A sunny location may be better than a shaded area, particularly if the tank is painted black.
Drinkers specifically designed for de-icers are much, much more efficient than a regular tank. This is because these types of waterers are insulated
and heat a much smaller volume of water. Check out our line of large animal waters in the Large Animal Waterers product group.
In the northern parts of the country frozen septic tanks can be a real problem. This is particularly the case during a winter season with little
snow cover. In these extreme situations, homeowners can use a de-icer to help prevent a septic tank from freezing up.
There is no guarantee that a de-icer in a septic tank will keep it from freezing up. However, many homeowners have tried this approach with
some degree of success.
If you wish to try a de-icer in your septic tank then we recommend the Premium Submergible De-Icer rated at 1500 watts. This de-icer is
approximately 8-inches in diameter. For those situations where a de-icer this size might not fit, then try the Universal Drain Plug De-Icer rated at
1500 watts.
Most stock tank de-icers have power cords 6 feet long. When considering a de-icer, please keep in mind this cord length and whether or not it
will work with your septic tank. If returns are requested because the cord length is too short, then the customer will be responsible for the
return shipping costs.
Furthermore, homeowners should be aware that such a use will invalidate any manufacturer’s warranty. If you use a de-icer in a septic tank then
do not expect the manufacturer to take it back.
Good luck!